When you think of brands making big comebacks, you probably imagine fashion labels or car companies. But in the watch world, few stories are as fascinating as the relaunch of Urban Jürgensen. If you're someone who enjoys independent watchmaking or neo-vintage design, this is something you’ve been waiting for your whole life.
The brand, now under the vision of Kari Voutilainen — basically a rockstar among watch guys — has released a flagship piece that’s so ambitious it almost feels like they wanted to drop the mic immediately. This piece is the UJ-1 Flying Tourbillon with Remontoir d'Égalité.
🧠 A Love Letter to Their Past (And a Bit to Themselves)
The UJ-1 pulls inspiration from an oval pocket watch designed by Derek Pratt. Pratt was a legend who worked closely with Urban Jürgensen and was known for pushing boundaries without shouting about it. After Pratt’s health started to decline, Voutilainen took on his unfinished oval project and learned a ton from it. This is why the UJ-1 is a watch born from decades of quiet dedication.
The dial? Classic Jürgensen but with a fresh twist. The guilloché work is on full display: horizontal grain d’orge (barleycorn pattern) in the center and Clous de Paris (hobnail texture) on the sub-seconds dial.
They’ve launched different versions: rose gold, platinum with a white dial, and a modern grey. The rose gold feels like the most soulful version.
🛠 A Movement Worth Obsessing Over
Inside beats a 100% hand-finished calibre. Every edge is hand-chamfered, surfaces frosted or mirror-polished — nothing left untouched. The frosting technique here makes the architecture pop, like matte paint on a hypercar.
Most of the gear train is hidden under plates, keeping it sleek yet visually deep — a joy for any movement nerd.
Technically, it’s a beast: the Remontoir d'Égalité ensures ultra-consistent energy to the escapement. Paired with the flying tourbillon, this rivals any "mega brand" piece.
🌀 A Few Unexpected Choices
The “0” at 12 o’clock is a reference to decimal time from revolutionary France — a quirky historical Easter egg.
“Copenhagen” on the dial connects to the brand’s Danish origin, though the watches are now made in Switzerland.
The lugs? Gone are the teardrops. Now short, stubby, modernist shapes — comfy, but divisive.
💸 Price & Vibe
The price is steep — around €330,000 — but for what it is, it makes sense. This is horological art, not a trend piece. It’s like a secret album by a master: if you know, you know. And by the time the crowd notices, it’s gone.
