I don’t read my horoscope. I don’t know my rising sign. I can’t tell you whether Mercury being in retrograde is good or bad. All I know is - I’m a Sagittarius, which means I tend to say “yes” to things I probably shouldn’t. Which is exactly why, when I heard that Vacheron Constantin had released a Métiers d’Art collection dedicated to the Zodiac, I jumped right in - even though today’s piece is for Aries, not me 🐏✨
The Tribute to the Celestial series consists of 12 models - one for each Zodiac sign - and the Aries version is the one I’ve been obsessing over. Not because I’ve suddenly become an astrology convert, but because this is pure mechanical art. And yes, Zodiac watches aren’t new (Patek’s done it, Blancpain’s done it, Vacheron has too), but this one has enough technical skill and artistic soul to make me forget about my sign ♈💫
A Little Brand Context
Vacheron Constantin has been making watches since 1755. Let that sink in: older than the United States, older than Beethoven’s first symphony, and certainly older than your great-great-great-grandfather’s pocket watch ⌛🇨🇭
This model takes inspiration from a 2021 pièce unique that had a minute repeater, a tourbillon, and a detailed sky chart. This time, the repeater and sky chart are gone, the magnificent tourbillon remains, and all the creative energy is poured into the dial and gem setting. The result isn’t a “let’s cram in every complication” piece, but rather “let’s make the most beautiful technical watch we can” 💎
Under the Hood - Calibre 2160
This isn’t just a pretty face - inside is the Calibre 2160 with a peripheral rotor and tourbillon. Normally, the winding rotor hides part of the movement; here, it runs along the edge, leaving the whole mechanism visible. It’s harder to make, but the result is stunning, especially for a watch where finishing is a key selling point 🔍
It beats at 2.5 Hz (18,000 vph), with an 80-hour power reserve. The tourbillon cage is symmetrical, with a blued screw acting as a running seconds indicator - a detail watch lovers will appreciate.
Finishing is Geneva Seal level: Geneva stripes, anglage, and satin brushing. Thickness is 5.65 mm, diameter just under 30 mm.
Case & Stones
The 39 mm white gold case is set with 96 baguette-cut blue sapphires (3.87 carats). They flow around the bezel, lugs, crown, and buckle. Unlike flashy jewellery pieces, here the stones accentuate the shape without stealing attention from the dial. The case is just 10.7 mm thick, impressive for a tourbillon.
The Dial - Where the Magic Happens
Each watch in the series features its Zodiac sign in guilloché and the matching constellation in diamonds 💫
Creating one dial is a feat: gold base, 16 hours of guilloché, brushing, opaline finishing, cutting the tourbillon aperture, applying rich blue coating, partial machining to reveal gold lines, lacquering, then setting the diamonds. Each step is handled by a different artisan - a single mistake at the end ruins days of work.
Aries features a finely guilloché ram, with the constellation above it in 4 brilliant-cut diamonds. The outer minute track is matte and slightly darker, framing the centre perfectly.
Wearability & Presence
This isn’t a daily beater or even a once-a-week watch - it’s for evenings where someone at the table will know what a peripheral rotor is 🍷
At 39 mm and 10.7 mm thick, it wears beautifully, and the sapphires catch the light in an elegant way without being over the top.
Price & Production
Price: €198,000 (before taxes) 💶 Not a limited edition, but production is naturally constrained by craftsmanship; it will be available for a few years.
Final Thoughts
If you’d told me, “Vacheron made a white gold Aries watch with sapphires and diamonds,” I’d imagine something excessive. But here, the balance of mechanics and decoration is perfect. The movement is impressive, the gem setting is refined, and the dial is a work of pure art. Astrology might say Aries and Sagittarius aren’t an ideal match, but if this watch showed up at my door, I’d just wind it and enjoy the masterpiece 🔭
