In every professional environment there exists its own language, often referred to as slang. It effectively opens the doors to a community of enthusiasts, experts, and masters who understand each other at half a word, who are deeply familiar with all the subtleties of the craft they are passionate about. However, this is not even the main point. Understanding the slang of the watchmaking community means being better oriented among new releases, trends in the industry, as well as nuances and details that may be essential both when purchasing premium watches and when servicing them. That is why we are confident that such a distinctive glossary of highly specialized terms and slang expressions, popular among enthusiasts, horologists, and collectors, may be useful to you.
Slang vocabulary has been forming over decades, because it is not merely terminology or abbreviations. It often denotes an entire phenomenon, a specific phraseology known only to the initiated — this is how “insiders” recognize one another within a professional community. At the same time, we decided not to abandon conventional watchmaking terminology, since many people may not always understand what is being discussed. So, we invite you to immerse yourself in the world of high watchmaking connoisseurs and begin speaking their language.
Bezels
A watch bezel is a fixed or rotating ring that secures the crystal to the case. In its fixed form, bezels serve as an additional scale with markings, while rotating bezels may be unidirectional (most commonly used in dive watches) or bidirectional. Bezels are often employed as design elements, which is why some of them have acquired nicknames:
Pepsi. Derived from the blue-and-red bezel that first appeared on the Rolex GMT-Master in the mid-20th century, created specifically for pilots of a U.S. airline.
Batman. The association with the legendary comic book character gave this nickname to the Rolex GMT-Master II with its black-and-blue ceramic bezel.
Coke. Once again a reference to the famous American soft drink Coca-Cola. This bezel became an alternative to Pepsi for those who prefer a balance of restraint and elegance.
Hulk, Kermit, Starbucks. These are nicknames of the modern era, defined by green color schemes: Hulk — a fully green ceramic version inspired by the Marvel comic character; Kermit — a combination of a black dial and a green aluminum bezel, released in honor of the 50th anniversary of the Submariner; Starbucks — a nickname inspired by the color palette of the globally known coffee chain.
Dials
This element of a watch requires little explanation — it is the surface on which hands, numerals or markers, indices indicating time and date, as well as additional complications are displayed. Some dials evoke specific emotions and associations, which is how their nicknames originated:
Panda. A white chronograph dial featuring three black subdials that visually resemble a panda’s face. The black-and-white contrast allows for easy reading of the counters. There is also an inverted version, where light subdials are placed on a black dial, as seen on the Rolex Daytona and Omega Speedmaster.
Patina. Such a dial emphasizes the maturity of the timepiece. It represents a change in color of luminescent markers and hands in vintage watches caused by long-term exposure to light, moisture, and air. On bronze watch cases, patina is the result of oxidation, making each piece unique by creating an individual pattern. Such changes testify to the uniqueness of the watch and, to a certain extent, influence its value.
Gilt, tropic. A gilt dial features gold-colored paint in its markings and inscriptions. This style is particularly valued in vintage Rolex watches produced in the 1950s–1960s. Tropic refers to dials that have lost their original color or turned brown due to prolonged exposure to sunlight.
Applied indices (Appliqué). Numerals, symbols, or decorative elements made of metal and affixed to the dial.
Twincept. Digital indications that appear to float above an analog dial.
Jaquemarts. Moving figurines on the dial that imitate the striking of time. Characteristic of Ulysse Nardin repeaters from the Jaquemart series.
Case and Its Shape
The case is essentially the “body” that houses all the watch’s “internal organs.” It is produced from various materials and in the most unexpected shapes, which, according to the designers’ intent, are necessary for a particular model in order to accommodate all technical complications. The cases of famous watch brands have acquired specific names such as Tank, Tonneau, Cushion, Oyster, Pusher, and others.
