Rolex High Watchmaking: The Return of the Legendary Perpetual Padellone

An unexpected presentation of new watches from renowned Swiss brands is always a pleasant surprise for collectors and market experts. And while watch companies prepare for international exhibitions in Geneva, Basel, Dubai, and Munich according to carefully calibrated strategies, the appearance of new collections outside the world’s major watch fairs is like an explosion from within, surpassing standards and pushing the boundaries of what is possible. This is especially true when we are talking about such a legendary brand as Rolex, which in recent years has delighted its fans with only three presentations outside Watches and Wonders: the Daytona Le Mans, the titanium Deepsea Challenge, and the Deepsea D-Blue.

By controlling every process involved in manufacturing products under its name, Rolex possesses an unprecedented production infrastructure built on human capital and cutting-edge technologies. Today, we will take a closer look at a new version of a vintage classic, equipped with an instantaneous annual calendar, a technically sophisticated new 5 Hz movement, and a moon-phase display — the Perpetual Padellone, which takes its name from the nickname given by Italian collectors to the 1949 model.

The new model, featuring the innovative Dynapulse escapement, was presented on September 15, 2026. By holding a private presentation and world premiere in Milan, Rolex emphasized the independence of this sophisticated classical line from its traditional spring sports releases at Watches and Wonders in Geneva. The presentation was exclusive, giving leading watch experts and journalists from around the world their first opportunity to experience the calibre 7190 in action and see the unique meteorite moon disc in person.

77 Years Later: The Story of the Return

The Rolex Reference Ref. 8171 Triple Calendar Moonphase, known as the Padellone — which translates from Italian as “large frying pan” — stood out for its round case measuring 38 mm in diameter, enormous by the standards of its time. Its distinguishing features included:

• an automatic Perpetual movement with the A295 CPL calibre, certified as a chronometer;

• materials — steel, yellow gold, and occasionally rose gold;

• a snap-on caseback rather than a screw-down one, which allowed moisture to penetrate;

• a silver dial with a complete calendar and moon phases, while the day of the week and month were displayed in two windows at 12 o’clock;

• a subdial at 6 o’clock housing the small seconds hand and moon-phase indicator.

Approximately 1000–1400 examples of the rare Ref. 8171 were produced between 1949 and 1953. However, due to its low moisture resistance, only a small portion of this production run has survived to the present day in good condition (estimated at around 200–250 examples). In other words, this rarity was not designed for sports, much less diving.

However, the story of these watches did not end there. The Ref. 6062 soon followed, now housed in a 36 mm Oyster case with a screw-down caseback, improving its water resistance. It shared with the Padellone the automatic A295 CPL movement with a 360-degree rotor, moon-phase indication, and triple calendar.

The New Perpetual Padellone: Modern Technical Classicism

The new Rolex model attracts collectors and brand enthusiasts through its resemblance to the historical mid-20th-century version and the Perpetual 1908 model introduced in 2023. Presented in Milan, the Perpetual Padellone is inspired by one of the most unusual models in the brand’s history, and today the watch’s Italian nickname has become the official name of its successor.

Perpetual Padellone Case and Dial Details You Need to Know

The Perpetual Padellone movement is visible through the caseback. It features bridges with Côtes de Genève finishing and an 18-carat yellow gold rotor. The model’s distinguishing features include:

1. Case:

• made from special 18K Everose gold, which is new to the collection, or 950 platinum;

• dimensions: 39 mm in diameter, 12.2 mm thick, and approximately 45 mm lug-to-lug;

• domed fluted bezel and similarly shaped sapphire crystal;

• screw-down, fluted caseback with sapphire crystal;

• water resistance — 50 m.

2. Dial — jewellery craftsmanship through materials:

• matte grained finish bordered by a raised satin-finished date track;

• a blue central hand with a crescent-shaped tip indicates the current date;

• Perpetual-style hands: an open-tipped hour hand and pencil-shaped minute hand;

• applied numerals at 3 and 9 o’clock, with faceted markers at the remaining positions;

• moon phases: blue enamel disc, completing one full rotation every 29.53 days; the full moon and new moon are made from meteorite: silver with black printing for the full moon, blue PVD with silver printing for the shaded moon (new moon), with printed silver stars.

3. Straps/bracelets:

• with Everose gold — matte brown or matte black alligator leather, green calfskin lining, tone-on-tone stitching, and a double folding clasp;

• the Everose gold version is also available with the Settimo bracelet featuring seven rounded polished links and a concealed Crownclasp;

• the platinum case version comes with an alligator leather strap.

As for the case, all of its surfaces are polished, reinforcing the classical design language. Recessed calendar correctors are positioned along the sides of the case: month at 2 o’clock, date at 4 o’clock, moon phases at 8 o’clock, and day of the week at 10 o’clock.

The new Perpetual Padellone is a classic watch for those who understand and appreciate sophisticated movements. Overall, the three versions of the model represent three distinct characters: warm gold, cool platinum, and a bracelet for those who do not like straps.

Source: Hodinkee.comSource: Hodinkee.comSource: Hodinkee.com

Calibre 7190: Technological Leadership Built on Tradition

The movement inside the Perpetual Padellone is not simply a new calibre; it is a demonstration that Rolex strives for and is capable of technological leadership in the watch market. Following the Land-Dweller model of 2025, this is already the second new release from Rolex in the past two years — a truly inspiring pace. Although, in essence, it is an evolution of the 2017 Cellini Moonphase, it introduces several innovations:

• day, date, and month indications — all change simultaneously at midnight;

• blue enamel moon-phase indicators featuring two celestial bodies made from meteorite — the full and shaded moon;

• calibre 7190 operating at 5 Hz, built on the architecture of calibre 7135, with the Haplos system that recognizes 30- and 31-day months (meaning the calendar needs to be corrected only once a year, at the end of February), and the high-frequency Dynapulse escapement made from silicon (it reduces energy loss and is approximately 30% more efficient than a traditional Swiss lever escapement);

• the regulating system includes a silicon Syloxi hairspring, ceramic balance staff, double variable-inertia balance wheel, traversing balance bridge, indirect tangential impulse, and optimized Paraflex shock absorbers.

According to experts, behind the vintage design of the Perpetual Padellone dial lies the Rolex of the future, supported by nearly 30 patent applications for innovations developed specifically for this model.

The annual calendar is not the brand’s first development of its kind, but it nevertheless differs in several ways:

• annual calendar programming is integrated into the reverse side of the month disc;

• safe rapid setting.

Even the name of the Haplos system (translated as “simple”) emphasizes that it consists of only two additional components, which is unusual for an annual calendar. In addition, Superlative Chronometer certification has been carried out according to the new 2026 criteria: resistance to magnetism, reliability, environmental sustainability, accuracy of ±2 seconds per day, and a power reserve of 66 hours.

Perpetual Padellone: A Pleasant Surprise in the Watch Universe

For now, the Perpetual Padellone does not have its own page on the famous brand’s official website, while sales are planned to begin in November 2026. But it is already possible to state with confidence:

• Rolex demonstrates a willingness to experiment;

• returning to vintage references is a new trend for the company;

• the combination of Dynapulse, an annual calendar, and elegant design marks a bid for a new chapter in Rolex history.

However, the Perpetual Padellone is not a mass-market model, but a watch for those who value and understand technical complications and innovation. Therefore, the professional experts at our Chrono 10:10 boutique can help you determine whether this Rolex masterpiece deserves your attention. We help source similar rarities for your collection and make a well-considered purchasing decision.