Patek Philippe’s technical innovations and unrivalled heritage do not need to shout for attention. With nearly 200 years of engineering genius behind them, they demonstrate that assets such as the brand’s finest Nautilus and Aquanaut models do not lose their value or potential for financial growth even amid the most severe economic storms. Therefore, before purchasing any of the flagship models, it is advisable to study their market positioning, including their long-term prospects. After all, according to the brand’s philosophy, you “never actually own” a Patek Philippe watch — you merely look after these masterpieces for the next generation. This familiar slogan, repeated in Patek Philippe advertising since 1996, once again emphasizes that the rich heritage of the renowned Swiss company is an intergenerational investment inscribed in the annals of history.
Iconic Patek Philippe Models
The brand’s collections are filled with legendary models, yet some of them are considered particularly iconic due to their historical legacy and market performance. As such, they rank among the most sought-after sports watches and serve as key drivers of the Swiss company’s retail strategy.
Nautilus — the Benchmark for Steel Sports Luxury
This collection is the brand’s most valuable asset, with unprecedented liquidity. Introduced in 1976, the Nautilus revolutionized watchmaking by using stainless steel for a premium-segment watch. Designed by the celebrated Gérald Genta, the model features a rounded octagonal “porthole” case with an integrated bracelet. Initially, the watch was appreciated by the brand’s enthusiasts, but in the 2010s, the value of the three-hand Nautilus 5711/1A with a date complication soared dramatically. As demand far exceeded supply, waiting lists stretched for several years, while the secondary market simply exploded. For example, a watch with a blue dial that could be purchased for $25 thousand in 2015 was trading for more than $134 thousand on the grey market by 2024.
The company’s decisions to discontinue certain models further fuelled demand. For example, the 5711/1A-014 with a green dial, produced for less than a year, began trading for more than $300 thousand in 2021. And if we recall the rare blue Tiffany double-signed example, this lot reached $6.5 million at the New York Watch Auction 2021 charity auction — a record among modern steel watches.
Among the most liquid Nautilus models:
Ref. 5711/1A-010 with a blue dial. Discontinued in 2021, it has nevertheless gained 28% in value over five years and 33.5% over the past 12 months. This version demonstrates steady growth based on the formula of “rarity + demand.”
Ref. 5711/1A-011 with a white dial increased in value by 24% over five years and by 22% over the past 12 months.
Ref. 5811/1G-001 in white gold. Having debuted in 2022, this model has gained 8% in value in less than four years and an impressive +22% over the past year!
Today, virtually any Nautilus variation disappears from the market within just a few days. For example, the market value of the aforementioned brand-new 5811/1G with a full set, despite its retail price of $70 thousand, has already reached $220+ thousand. It should be emphasized that, despite the increase in value driven by media hype, models from the Nautilus collection remain a benchmark of technical and aesthetic excellence.
Aquanaut — Bold Sporting Luxury
To mark the 20th anniversary of the legendary Nautilus, Patek Philippe introduced a new interpretation of sporting chic — the Aquanaut. It differs from its “older brother” with a checkered-pattern dial, nicknamed the “grenade” among brand enthusiasts, and a tropical composite strap resistant to water and wear. For some time, this collection was compared with the Nautilus, but over the past five years, Aquanaut watches have demonstrated such positive momentum that many experts and horologists have begun to recognize them as a quiet trend gaining strength, combining classic watchmaking elements — precious metals and gemstones — with a sporting style:
The Aquanaut 5167A-001 demonstrated the strongest performance among steel sports models: +39% over five years. Despite a list price of €24 thousand, this model is already selling for more than €50 thousand on the secondary market — a 100% “premium.” In the United States, its average value at the beginning of 2024 was $68 thousand.
The rose-gold Aquanaut 5072R-001, executed in a feminine Haute Joaillerie style, achieved an absolute record in price growth: +92% over five years.
Ref. 5164 Aquanaut Travel Time with dual time zones and Ref. 5968 Aquanaut Chronograph in gold, which significantly increased the collection’s appeal.
The surge in popularity of Aquanaut models as standalone bestsellers can be explained by factors similar to the excitement surrounding the Nautilus: limited production of steel models, growing interest among a younger generation of collectors in luxury sports watches, and an atmosphere of refined exclusivity created by the company’s experienced marketers.
Thus, we have seen that the main drivers behind the growing appeal of watches from the renowned Swiss luxury brand Patek Philippe are the Nautilus and Aquanaut models — they continue to increase in value. All components — steel, gold, precious stones — continue to rise in price and create a phenomenon of distinctive investment appeal. The experts at our Chrono 10:10 boutique can help you understand all the nuances and select an option that suits your needs and budget.
